I would definitely experiment a bit. Here are a couple of thoughts...
Probably a combination of some of these options will work best.
- You could use iron nitrate in conjunction with tannic acid. This should result in a pretty dark color.
- You could use a more aggressive acid. I believe some of the commercially available stuff might fall in this category.
- You could also tint the finish. Bone black or lamp black would work. Add to the finish and build up in layers.
- Darkening with some aniline dyes might help as well.
Probably a combination of some of these options will work best.
Does this kit come in brass hardware?
The hardware for the Mountain Rifle Kit is only available in iron. This is the traditional material for this style of rifle. It was designed for iron and the brass will have somewhat different shrinkage rates from the casting process.
Are the holes all drilled in the metal parts and the stock?
All of the holes are drilled in the wood. Some holes need to be drilled in metal parts.
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Is there any way to finish the lock without taking it apart?
In order to do a good job finishing the lock, you would need to take it apart. This isn't too difficult. You could leave the lock "as cast" and not finish it further, though, if you prefer.
How do you put the antique finish on the metal parts?
In order to age metal parts, various techniques can be used. One of the most typical is to heavily rust the parts, clean off the rust so that pitting remains and then apply chemicals such as cold blue to darken the pits and recesses that don't get worn.
For a blue gray metal finish, I've mostly just used a product called Brass Darkening Solution sold by Historic House parts. I just scrub it on lightly with a fine scotch-brite pad for the barrel. Smaller parts I just dip in a container of it and then buff it back a little fine scotch-brite, steel wool or pumice powder. It just sort of takes the edge off the bright color of the metal.
For a blue gray metal finish, I've mostly just used a product called Brass Darkening Solution sold by Historic House parts. I just scrub it on lightly with a fine scotch-brite pad for the barrel. Smaller parts I just dip in a container of it and then buff it back a little fine scotch-brite, steel wool or pumice powder. It just sort of takes the edge off the bright color of the metal.
Is this kit basically just putting this gun together and finishing it?
In order to put the kit together, a small amount of part fitting is required.
- The inlets are very precisely made, however cast parts vary slightly in size, so a small amount of adjusting may be necessary.
- After parts are fit, pinned or screwed in place, the stock will need to be sanded.
- Ideally the metal parts would be touched up with a file and smoothed with abrasive paper.
- The wood and metal would then need finishing.
Would this rifle be appropriate for a patch box?
One is not necessary, but if you wanted to add one, I would suggest a box made of sheet iron (steel). The gun is of course iron mounted so this would go well and is very traditional. Often these boxes were sort of cigar shaped or an elongated and flattened ellipse. Sometimes they would use a grease hole.
Also I wanted to know if you offer a nose cap or could suggest one that is appropriate to fit this kit as well as an entry thimble.
As to function, a cap might protect the end of the gun a touch better. I don't offer a nose cap. Many of these rifles didn't have caps. If caps were uses they were either poured pewter or sheet metal. Some of the work this gun was based on had a steel cap, but others didn't.
I doubt any commercial cap will fit. On any I've seen, the shape a little odd and doesn't match that typically seen on original work.
A sheet metal cap would have to be made rather than purchased. This isn't a terrible job, but does take some time and requires care. Another option is a poured pewter cap. these were sometimes used, and at times were designed to be decorative in nature.
There is an entry thimble on this rifle kit. It doesn't have a tab extending over the forestock, but one could be added.
I doubt any commercial cap will fit. On any I've seen, the shape a little odd and doesn't match that typically seen on original work.
A sheet metal cap would have to be made rather than purchased. This isn't a terrible job, but does take some time and requires care. Another option is a poured pewter cap. these were sometimes used, and at times were designed to be decorative in nature.
There is an entry thimble on this rifle kit. It doesn't have a tab extending over the forestock, but one could be added.
Do you offer this rifle assembled in the white?
Yes, I could provide the rifle assembled in the white for an additional $700.
*Starred items most important.
*1/8” chisel *1/4” chisel *Xacto style knife *small mallet sharpening stone 7/4 gouge or similar size *6”-8” single cut mill file *6”-8” half-round file *6” triangular (3 square) file *half-round needle file triangular (3-square) needle file (optional) |
*center punch
*1/16” drill bits *1/16” pin punch *small hammer *battery, electric or hand drill #29 drill bit 8-32 tap and wrench *side cutters *screwdriver *2”-3” c-clamp articulating arm lamp jewelers saw (optional) |
150-320 grit abrasive paper for wood
150-320 grit abrasive paper for metal cabinet scraper jack stand prop for rifle (optional) extension cord inletting transfer color wood stain and finish of your choice metal finishing solution of your choice |